Kokoda Trail

By Claire Lindsay

In the thick jungles of Papua New Guinea, where the mist clings to your skin and every step feels like a battle against gravity, a group of young Victorians took on a challenge unlike any other: the Kokoda Trail. Selected as part of a prestigious scholarship program, we were a diverse team from all corners of the state, brought together not by coincidence but by a shared drive to test our resilience, deepen our understanding of history, and grow in ways no classroom could ever teach.

The Kokoda Trail is 138 kilometres of steep ascents, slippery descents, river crossings, and endless mud. It winds its way through remote PNG villages and rugged mountain terrain, where the legacy of World War II lies silently beneath the canopy. Many Australians know the name Kokoda, but few grasp its full story. What we walked was not just a track—it was a sacred path of sacrifice and endurance.

At Isurava, we stood beside the four stone pillars - Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice - etched with values we came to live and breathe each day. Further along the track we stood at Brigade Hill, where outnumbered Australian soldiers fought desperately to hold back Japanese forces. At many locations students would read aloud information on a local soldier or soldiers from their area who had fought along the Kokoda Trail, who in the face of fear and exhaustion, would show unshakeable humility and courage to protect what we take for granted today.

Kokoda is not just history – it is also heart. The emotional journey we walked was as deep as the physical strain. There were moments of tears, frustration, and aching fatigue. There were blisters that stung and legs that refused to move. And yet, it was within those moments we found something greater: friendship. We came as strangers, but left as family, having carried each other through the toughest conditions imaginable. Laughing during dinner, sharing stories during water breaks, encouraging each other up never-ending climbs, we became part of something much larger than ourselves.

Central to that journey were the incredible porters, known lovingly as the "fuzzy wuzzy angels" by the soldiers of the past, and still just as important today. These men not only carried our food, tents, and large packs with all our other equipment, they carried our spirits. They caught us when we slipped, sang as we walked, and smiled through every downpour. Their strength is extraordinary, but it is their kindness and care that stays with you long after you return home.

Walking through the villages along the trail was a cultural experience that words barely do justice. Children ran barefoot to greet us with shy smiles. Families opened their homes and hearts, offering food, laughter, and a window into life in rural PNG. We learned about local customs, sang songs and nursery rhymes, and shared quiet, powerful moments with people whose way of life is both simple and deeply connected to the land. The generosity of the villagers reminded us how little you need to give so much.

The Kokoda Trail is more than a hike. It is a journey through history, through culture, and through yourself. It humbles you, breaks you down, then builds you back stronger. It reminds you of the weight of the past and the beauty of human connection. And it is an experience we will carry for the rest of our lives.

To the porters, our guides, the village communities, and the soldiers whose spirits walk that track still—thank you. Your stories, your strength, and your sacrifice are not forgotten.

We walked Kokoda, but Kokoda changed us.